We had an early breakfast on Saturday morning and got ready for our first day of ziyarah with Abu Saleh. 

We met Abu Saleh at Damascus gate, he explained that Damascus Gate is the center of the old city. Abu Saleh pointed out the cave of Nabi Sulaimaan A.S. 

Nabi Sulaimaan A.S. built the wall of the city using big stones and Salahuddin Ayyubi used the smaller stones.

Abu Saleh said that Nabi ﷺ said that Baitul Maqdis is ardul mahshar wal manshar, the land of resurrection and gathering. This means that this is where everyone will be given their fate in the aakhirah. Abu Saleh explained that the Bridge of Siraat will be from Mount Thoor to Qubbat as-Sakhra in Masjid-ul-Aqsa. The valley is then called Wadi Jahannam. 

We then passed David’s City (Silwan). Our first stop was the shrine of Nabi Dawood A.S. Because it was a Saturday, there was a lot of people in the area praying. 

Then we went to Bethlehem. Bethlehem is in the West Bank which is surrounded by a wall that is 15m tall. The people who live in the West Bank are not allowed to leave and in these areas, only Muslims are allowed. Abu Saleh mentioned that it is not known exactly where Nabi Isa A.S. was born just that he was born in Bethlehem. 

Then we went to Al-Ibrahimi mosque. The entrance to the mosque has a guard sitting there and they checked our passports. The Al-Ibrahimi mosque is 4000 years. This mosque has the graves of Nabi Ibraheem A.S. and his wife Sayyiditina Sarah A.S., Nabi Yaqoob A.S. and his wife Sayyiditna Layyah A.S., Nabi Ishaaq A.S. and his wife Sayyiditina Rifqah A.S. and Nabi Yusuf A.S.

In 1994, there was a massacre at this mosque where 29 Palestinians were killed. They closed the mosque for some time and then when they opened it again, they had built a separation in the masjid and divided it to be 60% Jewish and 40% Muslim. The tombs of Nabi Ibraheem A.S., Sayyiditina Sarah A.S., Nabi Ishaaq A.S. and Sayyiditina Rifqah A.S. are on the Muslim side and Nabi Yaqub A.S., Sayyiditina Layyah A.S. and Nabi Yusuf A.S. are on the Jewish side. While you can see the tombs, the graves are below the ground in a cave that was bought by Nabi Ibraheem A.S. 

Before we left Hebron, we stopped at Hirbawi Textile which is the last kufieh factory in Palestine. The owner took us to the back and showed us how the kufiehs are made and it truly was a sight to see. We bought kufiehs and Palestinian bracelets. We then stopped to fill petrol and bought some iced coffee at the store in the garage. 

The next stop was the mosque of Nabi Yunus A.S. Abu Saleh reminded us of the duaa that Nabi Yunus A.S. made in the belly of the whale. 

لَّآ إِلَٰهَ إِلَّآ أَنتَ سُبْحَٰنَكَ إِنِّى كُنتُ مِنَ ٱلظَّٰلِمِينَ

“There is no deity but You, Glory to You, Indeed I have been of the wrongdoers.”

We passed some fig trees on the way back. We were super excited to go back to the old city. We reached as the sky was turning pink and after a quick stop at the hotel, we went to Masjid-ul-Aqsa for Maghrib and Esha. 

After salaah, we went Ja’fer for kunafe and baklava which was 10/10. We finally bought some gums – I promise, the gums from here are the best gums I’ve ever had. We bought phone cases with the map of Palestine and it says “On this earth, life is not worth living”. 

We went back to the room with fresh rolls and chips and made polony and chip rolls. It slapped hard. Honestly, the mix of home food and buying out was perfect for us. 

After supper, we went to the rooftop where our South African group had tea and coffee and just enjoyed the conversation and the view. 

Please note: the only graves that we are 100% sure of is the graves of Nabi ﷺ, Sayyidina Abu Bakr R.A. and Sayyidina Umar R.A., all the graves we see throughout this trip – Allahu ‘Alam – Allah knows best. Also, all the various theories that are mentioned have multiple versions and not all is fact – once again, Allahu ‘Alam – Allah knows best.

Step count: 12 671